Notes on the Garden Island
It was a relaxed drive from the Lihue Airport to Princeville that day. My flight arrived on time, and the car rental shuttle was waiting at the curb. I was delighted to see the sun shining and the blue skies as I made my way past the baggage claim area boarded the van to my waiting rental car.
It was one of many day trips to the Garden Island, and today was no different than the 15 or more I make each year. The drill hardly varies. Arrive before 9:00 am and leave by 3:30pm and get as much done as possible without fainting. I grabbed a vente café mocha while changing planes in Honolulu to help get my mind focused on my mission but certainly at least another one or two would be needed to successfully do magic.
As usual, I grabbed my car, and headed toward the North Shore. I was planning on an hour drive to allow time for the horrendous traffic that collects between Wailua and Kealia Beach. Kuhio Highway is contra-flowed toward Lihue in the morning hours making Hanalei bound traffic limited on one lane.
As far as I can tell, Kauai has two major problems. One is traffic congestion and the other is feral chickens. The circular island has only one main road that runs the perimeter of the island. By-pass roads have been built at critical junctions, but more needs to be done. Two major construction projects are in full swing. The Wailua bridge widening and the widening of Kaumualii Highway at Puhi. Certainly, once finished, these projects will improve traffic flow, but for now, it just makes is nearly unbearable to have traffic backed up for miles while concrete is poured and excavators move earth to make way for growing numbers of island drivers.
Kauai roads have not changed much in a generation. The majority of the island still is limited to two lane highways that wrap around the island from the west side to Haena. A few spots are noticeably new. The road fronting Lihue Airport is wider and lushly landscaped and there is an interesting traffic circle in Koloa. The airport improvements allow for tour busses, rental cars and shuttle vehicles ample space. The Koloa circle is a wonderful option to a traffic light and intersection, and traffic constantly moves in and around the circle with ease.
My mid-week visit finds Poipu Beach crowded. The hotels that line the beach are squeezed together so tightly that it seems to have the density of Waikiki in places. However, the beach is just as beautiful as ever. The signature tombolo is still intact and provides beach goers with a variety of ocean conditions that suit everyone from small children to surfers. Beach goers line the sandy shoreline slathered with sunscreen.
I have been told by others that many who come to Poipu use Hawaii travel apps to find it, to find parking and even to find a hotel. I’m not sure if that is true or not, but I did see several sun bathers peering into their iPhone travel apps for area restaurants and even a jogger using his Android travel app to plot is an exercise route for the day.
Although it has changed from how I remembered it years before, Poipu is still a special place. The beach as a quiet and almost private feel to it with all the amenities anyone would ever need. The area by law has low-rise condos instead of high rise hotel towers.
The personal enjoyment of the ocean is what takes precedence at Poipu, and that exactly how it should be.
Lottie Tagupa is a native Hawaiian, born and raised on the island of Oahu. She has been writing about Hawaii for over 10 years and currently lives in Waimea on the Big Island.
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